" Old Florida" - the theme for this trip

Likely there are many definitions out there to define "Old Florida".  Some might think of times before the rise of super theme parks, others the very early, pre-history human inhabitants or the visits by European explorers long before the Mayflower.
 However, my thoughts go to times during the mid-20th century when our family traveled to Florida, a place so unique and unusual that my memories are still strongly anchored to that past time.  It was a place of flamingos, alligators, snakes, palm trees, and huge deep green vegetation never seen in our mountain home.

And, luckily, today there are still places in Florida to visit that have maintained that tropical lifestyle.  And, I sincerely hope that such locations remain for other generations to see.

After leaving the panhandle, we headed to Cedar Key on the western coast.  I had read several travel articles that defined this area as "Old Florida".  And I was not disappointed.  First, much of the area around this barrier island has been protected.  Gary and I spent a day checking out the dirt walking trails and roadways within the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge.  Those with kayaks or canoes could explore more beyond these trails, including within other local refuges.

A 28 foot high shell midden covering over five acres was evidence of the ancient peoples who lived along the shore.

Area where midden dune was disturbed

Walking along the shoreline during low tide, we saw many crabs traveling in masses from one spot to another. 

March of the crabs...

And, shore birds were busy getting their share of clams, oysters, crabs and fish.  This was, of course, a great area for birding and observing other marine life.

Driving in the refuge had its own appeal, with many colonies of cypress and other water loving plants.  At times it was almost surreal - we could hear many birds, but they were very elusive and not posing for the camera!

Cedar Key (defined as the island, the collection of several barrier islands, or the town of Cedar Key) has its own interesting history.  A very early port, and major commercial center in early Florida history (after the railroad connected it to the east coast), Cedar Key exported supplies of seafood and timber.  Cedar wood was particularly milled into small slats used for manufacture of pencils (the wood did not splinter!).

Today the town is more known as a "laid-back" place for creative artists and writers.  On our first night in town, another visitor described Cedar Key as "Key West, before it became such a popular tourist location" (maybe Hemingway's time?). 

The harbor area is a busy place with several good restaurants (seafood of course), bars and shops to check out.  Trying meals at several places was a success - all great!

To see the other barrier islands considered part of Cedar Key, we took a great educational boat ride with Tidewater Tours.  Since most of the islands are closed to the public, or only the sand beach is accessible, we enjoyed the tour.

First dolphins decided to ride alongside - but they seemed a bit camera shy! 

Double-crested Cormorants on old piers

This was an area with both cormorants (marine) and anhingas (fresh water).  Though they may seem similar, we learned they are actually unrelated.

On the other hand, the sea birds must be totally used to the slow moving boats passing nearby.  Most seemed to be watching us watching them.  We did see some not-so-common birds like the American Oystercatcher and Bald Eagle.

American Oystercatcher in foreground

A bald eagle on "lookout"

American White Pelican - much larger than the Brown Pelican - and they "fish" differently!

We learned that at least a couple of these barrier islands are receding in size - why?  The likely cause is erosion for the land mass due to early settlers using the wood from the mangrove trees that are coastal protectors!

One of the islands, Seahorse Key, had some interesting facts:  1) A lighthouse sits on top of an early shell middens- created dune, at the highest point in the Gulf of Mexico -  48 feet above sea level: 2) the U of FL leases space on the island to study bird rookeries; and 3) there are 233 cottonmouth (venomous) snakes per acre under the trees with the rookeries. This creates a symbiotic relationship between the birds and the snakes since the snakes eat the local arboreal rats! 

Landing area at Seahorse Key with lighthouse in background

This island is also closed to the public most of the time, with "events" a few times a year.  Personally, I would not be interested in visiting the rookeries areas...

 And it is a fun place for sunsets and just relaxing!